Mittwoch, 11. Januar 2012

Fundstücke Januar

Auch in diesem Jahr geht es mit den Fundstücken selbstverständlich in gewohnter Manier weiter.
Neulich habe ich ein Buch bei einer Auktion erworden, bei der ich der einzige Bieter war. Das liegt wohl an dem etwas bedauernswerten Zustand des Buches, aber was kümmert das, wenn man dafür die doppelbändige Ausgabe des Lady's Monthly Museum von 1808 in den Händen halten und ein wenig auf den Seiten in die Vergangenheit spazieren darf.
I decided to keep the tradition of sharing a monthly find. 
Recently I've purchased a book at an auction, where I've been the only bidder, which isn't a surprise, because the book was in a pitty plight. But that didn't matter to me, because now I own a complete annual Vol. IV & V 1808 of the Lady's Monthly Museum, which enables me to take a stroll on the pages into the past.
Der volle Titel lautet wie folgt:
The complete title reads as following:

The Lady's Monthly Museum;
or Polite Repository of Amusement and Instruction:
being an assemblage of whatever can tend to please the fancy, interest the mind, or exalt the character of
The British Fair.

By a Society of Ladies.
Vol. IV. & Vol. V.
New Series
London
Printed for Vernon, Hood, and Sharpe,
31, Poultry;
At the Union Printing Office, St. John's Square, by W.Wilson
1808

Durch den Auktionstext und die Bilder wusste ich, dass der Einband mehr als beklagenswert ist; und dass zudem alle zwölf Modekupfer fehlten - ein trauriges Schicksal, das wohl viele Modejournale teilen!
Zunächst hatte ich beabsichtigt, dem Journal einen neuen Einband in alter Tradition zu verpassen, aber als ich das Exemplar dann in den Händen hielt, schwand dieses Verlangen.
Der Rücken ist in wunderbarer Lederprägung und die Umschlagdeckel selbst sind aus einem alten Buchhalterblatt gebunden. ("Pay Master Creditor")
Außerdem sind auf den ersten "Schmutzblättern" noch einige handgechriebene Vermerke.
It was mentioned in the auction's description and through the photos, that the cover was absolutley worn; and that all twelve fashion plates were missing - a sad fate that many fashion journals struggle!
First I was determined to give the journal a complete new binding using old techincs, but as soon as I received the book, I felt uncertain.
The spine is made of leather with a beautiful print and the cover is made using a creditors sheet ("Pay master Creditor").
And there are several handwritten notes on the first few pages.

Die Lösung für die fehlenden Modekupfer war rascher gefunden! Glücklicherweise entdeckte ich eine Seite, auf der zumindest neun der zwölf Drucke abgebildet sind. Diese habe ich ausgedruckt und dem Journal als lose Seiten beigelegt.
Da die Texte zu den Modekupfern nicht hinterlegt sind, erlaube ich mir, sie hier niederzuschreiben - ich hoffe, meine Leser haben genauso viel Freude daran wie ich und verzeihen mir, dass ich den Text - ausnahmsweise -  nicht ins Deutsche übersetzt, sondern im Original belassen habe. 
(Durch klicken der Überschriften gelangt man jeweils zu den verfügbaren Abbildungen der Modekupfern)
A solution for the missing fashions plates however was soon found! Luckily I discovered a lovely website, where nine out of the twelve fashion plates are shown. I have photocopied these and added the loose pages to my journal for reference.
As the descriptions of the plates aren't mentioned there, I'd like to share them and hopefully my readers enjoy them as much as I do.
(Please click on the headlines of each month to see the availably pictured fashion plates)

General Observations on the Fashions for January 1808
The Hair continues to be worn with little Variation from the style of the preceding Month; it is drawn in a plain band across the Forehead, and fastened on one side with a single Gold Comb, from which the ends descend in light and tasteful Ringlets; the only Ornaments worn on the Head are embroidered Handkerchiefs, of coloured Net, which are most elegant in Gold; these are arranged according to the Fancy of the Wearer, and particular Contour of Feature.—The prevailing Colours are Amber, Orange, Pink and Crimson.
The Robe, in full Dress, is chiefly composed of Muslin, with white Satin trimming.  In walking Dresses, coloured Muslin, with embroidered Borders, are most fashionable; the Sleeves are made very full on the Shoulder, and high across the Bosom, with a Chemisette vandyked round the Throat.
The Ornaments most prevalent are, Cornelian, Agate, or Egyptian Pebble, Beads, with Broaches to correspond: earrings of small coloured Beads, twisted in a large Ring, are very beautiful.
Shoes of Black Velvet, with coloured Binding, are the newest Mode, which are chiefly made to tie high on the Instep.
Pelisses or Mantles of Scarlet Cloth, trimmed with broad Fur, and Turban Caps of the same Materials, have a rich ans seasonable Appearance; they are made with pointed Capes descending from the Collar.
Evening Mantles, instead of Fur, have a rich Border of Black Velvet, embroidered in Devices.

Cabinet of Fashion. February 1808

Fig. 1. A straw coloured dress of sarsnet, with alternate stripes of lace ; head-dress to correspond, with white ostrich feathers. Kid gloves.
Fig. 2. Hair fashionably dressed; pink crape dress, ornamented with white crape. White kid shoes.
Fig. 3. Round cambric dress; bloom coloured mantle, trimmed with swansdown, but the same colour.

Cabinet of Fashion. March 1808

Fig. 1. Plain muslin dress, embroidered round the bottom, sleeves and tucker to correspond; a fashionable silk mantle; head dress the same colour; white kid gloves.
Fig. 2. An under dress of sarsnet, with long sleeves; a Turkish robe, of rose colo ured velvet, trimmed with ermine; head dress of white sattin and velvet, ornamented with ostrich feathers; kid shoes.

Cabinet of Fashion. April 1808
Fig. 1. Dress of white satin, with robes of India silk, falling loosley from the shoulder; full sleeves. Turban of white satin, with ostrich feathers.
Fig. 2. Dress of fine muslin, made high over the bosom; the back full, with bows of ribband from the waist to the bottom of train. Turban of crimson buff; white shoes and gloves.
Fig. 3. Dress of plain muslin; pelisse of silk, made without plaits; a small bonnet, to correspond with the pelisse. Dark shoes and gloves.

Cabinet of Fashion. May 1808

Full Dress.—Dress of fine muslin, elegantly worked down the front and around the bottom, and trimmed with pea-green ribbon.—Hair fashionably dressed.—White shoes and buff gloves.
Walking Dress.—Short dress of muslin, with lace trimming.—Shawl of lilac silk, and bonnet of the same color, with a fancy flower in front.

Cabinet of Fashion. June 1808
Fig. 1. Short dress of muslin; pelisse of fine cambric, and fashionable straw hat; yellow gloves.
Full Dress.—A round dress of pale pink sarsnet, covered with a stout robe of white crape, or net; a cap of white lace, or net, and bows, ornamented with a red rose in front.

Cabinet of Fashion. July 1808

Fig. 1.—A robe of pink sattin over a dress of crape; the sleeves formed of alternate stripes of love and sattin.—Cap of white lace, and wreath of flowers.
Fig. 2.—A round dress of fine muslin.—Pelisse of green silk, trimmed with gloss.—A large gipsy hat of straw, ornamented with flowers.

Cabinet of Fashion. August 1808
Fig. 1.—Full Dress—A dress of Primrose sarsnet, half dress of white crape, richly embroidered.—A Spanish hat, the colour of the dress, ornamented with feathers.
Fig. 2.—Evening Dress—A plain dress of white muslin; a scarf shawl of silk, and hat of silk, to correspond with the color of the shawl.

Cabinet of Fashion. September 1808
Fig. 1.—A slip of pale pink silk, covered with a dress of fine spotted muslin, sleeves alternate stripes of lace and silk; the back made very low and loose, and trimmed round the bottom with Vandyke lace.—The head-dress is a half handkerchief of lace.
Fig. 2.—A round dress of plain muslin, trimmed with lace; a scarf, with sleeves of green sarsnet, fastened with tassles.—A Scot’s bonnet of white satin, with a wreath of flowers.—White gloves.

Cabinet of Fashion. October 1808

Fig. 1.—A round dress of lilac crape, embroidered with silver;cap to correspond with the dress.—Brace sash of silver ribbon.—White kid gloves and shoes.
Fig. 2.—Dress of white sarsnet, green sash.—Head dressed fashionably, with a tira and white feathers.—Diamond necklace.
Fig. 3.—Dress of plain muslin, made high over the bossom; long sleeves, with a full top plaited into a band.—Straw bonnet, trimmed with green.—Shawl of camel’s hair.—White gloves.

Cabinet of Fashion. November 1808
Fig. 1.—A short dress of muslin.—A pelisse of green silk, trimmed with puffings of green crape.—A gipsy hat, of white chip and ribbon, ornamented with a green wreath.
Fig. 2.—A dress of fine leno over white satin; sleeves short and full; the bottom of the dress, bosom, and sleeves richly embroidered in colours.—The hair fashionably dressed.

Cabinet of Fashion. December 1808

Fig. 1.—White beaver Spanish hat, and ostrich feather.—Round cambric dress, and silk shawl.
Fig. 2.—A fancy cap, ornamented with a flower in front.—Dress of white sarsnet, over that a robe of violet-coloured crape, and buff gloves.

Kommentare:

  1. Großartig und toll, dass Du zumindest einige Bilder ergänzen konntest. Vielleicht finden sich die anderen ja auch noch irgenwann.

    Ich düse übrigens gleich zur Post ;)

    Liebe Grüße aus dem Norden

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  2. Schönes Fundstück! Und dass Du die fehlenden Modekupfer teilweise finden konntest, macht das Fundstück noch schöner!!!

    Liebe Grüße aus dem Süden ;-)

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  3. Wow, vielen Dank für'a Abtippen!
    Ein wirklich tolles Fundstück! Bestimmt finden sich auch irgendwo mal die restlichen Kupfer :)

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