Samstag, 9. Juli 2011

Spencer 1815

Der Spencer ist fertig...
...und hätte ich nur eher geahnt, dass ein Spencer in Rot mit einem weißen Kleid ein solch schneidiges Kleidungsstück hergibt - ich fühle mich ein bisschen wie Fanny Brawne in "Bright Star". 
Zur Erinnerung: auf der Seite des Kyoto Costume Institute ist der besagte Spencer von 1815 zusammen mit einem passenden roten Rock abgebildet, im Buch "Fashion" ist er mit einem weißen Kleid zu sehen. 
Aber bevor ich ins Detail gehe, erstmal etwas Augenfutter:
My spencer is finally done...
...and had I only known earlier how dashing a red spencer looks matching a white dress - I feel a bit like Fanny Brawne in "Bright star".
A quick reminder: on the website of the Kyoto Fashion Institute the said spencer from 1815 is pictured with a matching red skirt/dress, whereas in the book "Fashion" it is shown with a white dress.
But before I'll go into detail, on to the finished piece:

Zum Vergößern anklicken - so erkennt man auch die kleinen Pünktchen im Seidenrips
For a better size please click - you'll then notice the tiny dots in the silk faille

 Das Oberteil ist nicht ganz so kurz wie im Original
The bodice isn't as short as the original piece

...herrlich geeignet zum Flanieren...
...lovely for taking a stroll...

 
Und die "Zutaten"? 
Statt des Samtes habe ich mich für Seidenrips entschieden. Davon habe ich ca 1.5m bei einer Stoffbreite von 1,40cm benötigt. Gefüttert ist der Spencer mit weißem Baumwollstoff.
Außerdem habe ich 26 Knöpfe (in diesem Fall Death's Head Knöpfe aus passendem Garn) und jeweils 4 Meter Soutache in Champagner und Creme verarbeitet.
And the "ingredients"?
Instead of velvet I decided on silk faille. I needed approx. 1.6 yards with a fabric wide of 55".
The Spencer is lined with white cotton.
Furthermore I needed 26 buttons (in this case death's head buttons made from a matching yarn) and 4.3 yard of soutache in each champagne color and cream color.

 ein Blick auf den Schnitt
the pattern

ein Blick auf das "Innenleben"
inside view

Kommentare:

  1. It is absolutely gorgeous. :)

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  2. Sabine- Lovely detail work on your spencer! When you have time, here is another take on the beautiful red and white color combination.
    http://www.christies.com/LotFinder/LotDetailsPrintable.aspx?intObjectID=5120780
    -Susan

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  3. Gorgeous! This one has always caught my eye in the KCI book, too. You did such a perfect job!!!

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  4. Bravo! A splendid spencer! I love it with the ruffled chemisette, and the white dress. Absolutely stunning!

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  5. Your work is exquisite, again! I love how red looks with the white dress.

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  6. Tolle Photos, Die angefertigte Kleidung ist super geworden!!Gratuliere.

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  7. You did a fantastic job! And I love the fabric.

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  8. Wow, it looks GREAT! It must be so fun to wear. :D

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  9. Absolutely brilliant. It looks great!

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  10. Der Spencer ist wirklich großartig geworden. Wunderschön!

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  11. Oh my! This is my new favourite. I think I say this every time you make something new :) congrats on your final product. Lovely!

    ~Mme Theo

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  12. WOW - Thank you all very much for your lovely comments and the input for new projects.
    I am unfortunetly quite slow at sewing this summer (due to the almost daily change of temperatures and me feeling quite weather weary), but started a new project on Monday...hopefully I can share a few pictures of the progress soon!
    Sabine

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  13. Sieht absolut genial aus!!! Bravissima!!

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  14. Dear Sabine,
    Congtratulations on another project so beautifully done.
    Might you tell us a little about how you decided to pattern it?
    Many spencers I do not find particularly handsome, but this one is adorable.
    Very best,
    Natalie

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  15. Dear Natalie,
    thank you for appreciating the spencer...and thank you for asking!
    It’s mainly done through trial & error.
    My first garments were made with commercial patterns (which are good to get a sense for sewing and assembling pieces), but I had always issues with sizing and measurements and perfect fit, because my body simply isn’t „perfect“!
    I (being a „self taught-don’t-know-exactly-what-I am-doing-but-it-works“ and always aiming an easy way to finding solutions) made a „body block pattern“ using an old snug t-shirt, ripping it apart at the seams, transferring it to cotton (without stretching) and pinning and marking the cotton according to my real measurements, then taking a pattern from it (front part (two pieces) side part and back part (one piece)). I guess there are many other ways explained on the net – like the calculating method etc.
    I leafed through lots of patterns and especially books like Janet Arnold's, Jean Hunisett's and the Bassermann-Jordan collection, getting to see as many variations of patterns as possible and trying to transfer this to my body block pattern. It’s fun, as you can move all the seams and shape so many different looks, nevertheless I often have to make several patterns and mock-ups until I’m finally done.
    And do not forget to add seam allowance and extra wide for outer garments!
    I always keep the paper patterns of my different garments, because often you can work with them in your next project instead of starting anew with the body block pattern.
    Sabine

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  16. Der Spencer ist ja zum Verlieben!
    Und wo hast Du denn diesen wunderschönen Stoff gefunden?? Vielen Dank für's Teilen Deiner Projekte! LG Hertzwerk

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  17. @Hertzwerk: Merci:))) Den roten Seidenrips gab es im sale bei stoffamstück. Ich glaube, er ist noch in champagner zu haben, allerdings zum regulären Preis.
    Sabine

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