Sonntag, 11. August 2013

These boots are made for walking...

Nachdem ich in diesem Sommer bereits zwei Paar 'moderne' Schuhe alltagstauglich für die Zeit um 1815 umgewandelt habe, 
wies mich die unglaublich talentierte Sarah vom Blog 'A most peculiar mademoiselle'
auf ein besonderes Paar Halbstiefel hin.
Ein einziger Blick genügte, um mein Interesse zu wecken!
While I've already had altered two pairs of 'modern' shoes into period footwear this summer,
the amazingly talented Sarah of the blog 'A most peculiar mademoiselle' nudge me to a rather unusual pair of half boots.
A single peek was sufficient, to catch my interest!
Schuh ca. 1815/20 Original des Bata Shoe Museum (?)
(Quelle/source: Regency Ramble)

Damals wie heute gab es Zeiten, in denen man zu Gunsten von Haus und Hof den Geldbeutel schonen mußte, statt der Mode zu folgen.
Aber die findige Hausfrau hatte sicherlich noch ein gutes Paar Schuhe vom Frühling oder Sommer, die sie flugs zu einem Halbstiefel für den nahenden Herbst umarbeiten konnte.
Eine ökonomische Maßnahme, die ich unbedingt nachahmen wollte.
Then and now people have been through times were the pennies would have been saved for maintenance of the house and yard, rather than spending them on fashion.
But the smart housewife probably had a mint pair of slippers from spring or summer, which could be altered into a lovely pair of half boots for the upcoming autumn.
An economic method, which I'd gladly like to copy.

Ein weiteres Paar Hirica Ballerinas mußte her. 
Zunächst folgte die gleiche Vorgehensweise wie bei meinen anderen Paaren. Die Schuhe bekamen Einlegesohlen aus festem Leinen, ein Schuhlabel aus Papier und schließlich den mit Tinte geschriebenen Hinweis
'rechts' und 'links', denn die Schuhe sind auf gleichem Leisten gefertigt.
Diesmal allerdings habe ich das Leder vorn nicht im Halbbogen belassen, sondern eine gerade Kante geschnitten.
Another pair of Hirica ballet flats was ordered.
First I followed the same procedure as with the other two pairs. The shoes received proper linen insoles made of sturdy linen, a shoe label made of paper and the ink inscription for 'right' and 'left' as the slippers are build on straight lasts.
This time however I had to cut the front from the curved edge to a straight.

Dann mußte ein Paar alter Socken herhalten, die am Fuß mit Kreppband umwickelt wurden, ehe ich in die Schuhe schlüpfte, um mir die Linien für das Schnittmuster einzuzeichnen.
Nach dem Hinzufügen der Nahtzugabe, sieht das Schnittmuster dann folgendermaßen aus:
Then I fetch an old pair of socks, which are wrapped around the foot with painter's duct tape, before slipping into the prepared shoes, hence to set the marks for a pattern.
After adding the seam allowance, the pattern finally looks like this:

Ich entschied mich dazu, das Obermaterial der Schuhe aus drei Lagen Stoff zu fertigen.
Innen helles Leinen, dann eine Schicht aus festem Baumwollstoff und schließlich schwarzer Chintz.
I decided to take three layers of fabric for the uppers.
Inside off-white linen, then a layer of sturdy cotton and finally glazed cotton in black.
 
Die drei Schichten wurden zunächst mit Heftstichen zusammengenäht, um dann die obere Kante mit schwarzem Ripsband einzufassen. Danach wurden für jeden Schuh 24 Schnürlöcher eingenäht.
The three layers were basted together before I stitched black grosgrain ribbon (Petersham) along the upper edge. After that I've stitched 24 lacing holes for each half boot.

Schließlich fehlte noch die Zunge. Ich wählte Leder, das ich von einer - bereits vor einiger Zeit aufgetragenen und zugeschnittenen - Jacke nahm und entsprechend mit Lederfarbe schwarz färbte.
Finally the boots needed tongues. I chose leather, which I took from a - old worn and already pieced - jacket. With the help of leather paint it quickly became black.

Bevor der Stoff an den bestehenden Schuh angenäht werden kann, muß die Zunge erst eingenäht werden.
Before sewing the fabric to the shoe base, the tongue has to be stitched to the uppers.

Und dann beginnt die eigentliche Arbeit. Pssst...die Finger danken einem den Gebrauch von einem geeigneten Fingerhut!
And then the true labour begins! Ssssshh...fingers are quite grateful for a proper thimble!
Ich hatte noch eine Rolle altes, sehr festes Baumwollgarn in Dunkelbraun, das üblicherweise als Teppichgarn bezeichnet wurde. Außerdem kam eine dicke Stahlnadel mit recht dünnem Kopf zum Einsatz.
Trotz vorgestochenen Löchern, einem Fingerhut und viel Begeisterung, mußte ich meinen Fingern und Händen nach der ungewohnten Arbeit nach dem linken Schuh erstmal einen Tag Ruhe gönnen.
Luckily I've had an old spool of sturdy brown cotton thread, known as rug-thread. I also used a thick steel needle with a small eye.
Although I punched the holes for the stitches beforehand, and although I used a thimble and went to work with great enthusiasm, I had to take a break from the unfamiliar work after finishing the left boot and give my fingers and hands a day of rest.

Aber dann war es endlich soweit!
But finally they were done!

 Die kleine Schleife, die ich bei meinem Paar hinzugefügt habe, sieht man bei vielen zeitgenössischen Paaren. Zudem erfüllt sie in diesem Fall einen Zweck, denn sie verdeckt die Stelle, wo ein paar Löcher von der ursprünglichen Dekoration geblieben sind.
The tiny bow, which I have added to my pair, is seen quite often in period pairs. Furthermore it has a purpose, because it hides a few holes, were there has formerly been the primarily decoration.
1815 Halbstiefel in Creme mit Schleife/ ankle boots in cream with ribbon tie (Quelle/source: Museum of London)

Die Schleife ist aus dem Einfassband (Ripsband) gefertigt.
The ribbon tie is made of the grosgrain ribbon.

Der braune Baumwollfaden hebt sich schmeichelhaft von dem schwarzen Schuh ab.
The brown cotton thread beautifully distinguishes from the black boots.

Ein Blick in den Schuh. Leider ist dieser Einblick bei dem Originalschuh vom Bata Shoe Museum nicht möglich gewesen, aber ich denke, dass die Verarbeitung ähnlich sein dürfte.
A glance inside the boot. Unfortunately this view isn't available for the original pair at the Bata Shoe Museum, but I suppose, the handling was similar.

Ich gebe zu, die Schnürlöcher hätten insgesamt etwas hübscher ausfallen können, aber schließlich erfüllen sie ihren Zweck...
I admit, the lacing holes could have been done a tad prettier, but - alas - they do fulfill their purpose...

Die Schuhe verfügen über die wunderbar langestreckte, zeitgenössische Silhouette, die ich bei so vielen Modekupfern bewundert habe.
The boots have the lovely prolongued period silhouette, which I have admired on so many fashion plates.

Und wie der Titel dieses Beitrags es schon andeutet...
And as the title of this blogpost already anticipated...

These boots are made for walking, and this is what they do

Diese Schuhe machen einfach richtig Spaß!
These boots simply are great fun!

Die Stiefelchen sind unglaublich angenehm am Fuß. Zwar sitzen sie eng, aber sie beugen sich jeder Bewegung.
These regency boots are highly comfortable. Although they have a tight fit, they do mold wonderfully.

Leider ist es mir - der guten Sitte folgend - nicht erlaubt meine weißen Strümpfe zu zeigen...
Unfortunately - according to decency commission - I won't show you my white stockings...

...nur ein klitzekleiner Einblick vielleicht.
...maybe a tiny sneek peak.

Ich mag sie gar nicht mehr ausziehen!
I'll probably wear them night and day!

36 Kommentare:

  1. Oh my goodness! I am full of envy. How much would you charge to make a pair for me?

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    1. Thank you, Jenni :) If you'd hop on a plane to stay here for a week, I could manage to get you a pair...heehee!

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  2. They turned out just as pretty as I thought they would! I must try that myself when I have the time and money :)

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    1. Thank you very much! You should truly give it a try.
      What I love best about the original boots is that they surely must have been altered and made up by a housewife. This does not require perfection in every detail, then and now there was an amateur at work :) It felt very authenitic to work that way.
      After all the trial and error I got an idea how much more challenging it must be to build up a complete pair with all the leatherwork at the sole.

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  3. Sabine, you are a genius and the most amazing problem solver!!! I LOVE your boots and now I want to make some for myself!!! I feel like it is much more reasonable to consider making the uppers for boots without having to make the soles! I'm going to keep this idea on my mind, because it is so ingenious!!! And also, I love the song "These boots are made for walking" because it brings back memories of my childhood and my father. :) You are amazing!!!

    Best,
    Quinn

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    1. Thank you, thanks a lot! But I guess the original wearer actually deserves to be called genius ;)
      I was so happy Sarah nudge me to this particular pair, because it was perfect for a home-made recreation. I do hope you'll try this method, too! I'm sure you'd have tons of fun!

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  4. Oh Sabine..you have absolutely out done yourself! You are so incredible! These are ADORABLE! I never noticed about the original pair that it was a slipper with an upper attached to it! I always just glanced at them and though oh thats charming, two toned boots. This is so amazing...Now I must prepare you that the world is going to want to recreate this genius idea too! In theory I would love to, but in reality I know I do not have the talent for it ; ). WELL done! My hero!

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    1. Thank you so much!
      I actually tried the two-tome version...my slipper base was formerly light brown and I added a darker brown silk, but somehow it looked so strange and as I did not have a black pair of boots I thought why not paint it and build up a monochrome boot. First I intended to take an old black jeans, if only I'd found one in my closet, instead I've found the chintz in my stash!
      I think for the best fit it is essential to go through the duct tape procedure, because simply adapting and altering the pattern in 'Every lady her own shoemaker' did not work properly.
      You should give it a try, you're talented and full of creativity and this is not really difficult - just be prepared that your fingers will ache for a few days ;)

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  5. Oh...my...word! OH MY WORD!!! You are so full of talent! To make your own boots! I wouldn't even know where to begin!! I am so full of awe and envy currently! I adore you pretty littel boots with their pretty little ribbon! I may have to hop a plane to you so you can teach me!! Swoon and sigh!!

    Be Blessed!

    Gina

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    1. Aawwwww - thank you very much! I truly appreciate your kind words :)

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  6. *gasp* These are AMAZING! I'm in awe!

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  7. Meinen Respekt für diese Arbeit! Die Schuhe sehen absolut authentisch aus, echt klasse!
    LG
    Emily

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    1. Vielen lieben Dank! Es freut mich, dass sie Dir gefallen...noch dazu sind sie richtig bequem :)

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    1. Thank you, Lauren!
      With these boots it was blisters on my fingers, instead of my feet ;)

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  9. SO FANTASTIC! Making shoes is *hard* and it takes special patience and skill to be able to do it, as of course you know. You are so amazing, Sabine!

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    1. Thank you! Yes, it's truly hard, my fingers can tell...thank you so much for your kind words on my 'housewife version' :)
      I would love to learn more about the original pair. It would be so interesting if we'd know why she altered them, instead of getting a new pair from the shoemaker...

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  10. Sabine! Mir fällt kein anderer Ausdruck ein: "Das ist der absolute Hammer!" Das ist genial!! Und weist du was? Ich glaube, ich muss es Dir nachmachen- nachdem ich heute von dem Schuhschnittmuster geträumt habe ;-).

    Brava!!!

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    1. ...auf jeden Fall!!! Das ist ein deutliches Zeichen ;) Wie gut, dass wir unsere Köpfe diesbezüglich in Kürze zusammenstecken können!
      Vielen lieben Dank für Deinen Kommentar!!!

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  11. These are fantastic! Great job! I feel like these are something I could make as well. Just need to find the right shaped flats to start out with. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a pair. Thanks for much for sharing these wonderful boots!
    -Emily

    Emily's Vintage Visions
    vintagevisions27.blogspot.com

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    1. Thank you very much! I really love my boots, although I feel they actually work rather for middling class (lower class?) daydresses than for finer clothing.
      Wish we could hear the story of the original pair...sigh...

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  12. That is so cool! What an ingenious way to make boots!

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    1. Thank you very much :) When it comes to shoes women always seem to be/have been quite ingenious!

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  13. Adorable and amazing! I'm inspired to try something similar :)

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    1. Thank you very much! You should definitivley give these boots a try, too!

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  14. CONGRATULATIONS!!! They look absolutely gorgeous. You are so clever and your boots don't
    Have anything to envy to the original ones.
    Nereida

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  15. I might have to make a pair of these for someone--thanks for the inspiration.

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  16. I cannot believe what I just saw. It is amazing! Thanks for sharing this wonderful idea.

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  17. They look fabulous. I'm rather tempted to try making a pair with some cheap pumps. (Although I might cheat and glue rather than sew some elements to save my fingers.) I'm slightly confused with the bit about the sock and how you get the pattern from that?

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    1. Thanks a lot!
      As for the construction of the pattern. Just put an old sock on your foot, wrap painter's duct tape around the sock and then slip into the shoes to which you will add the boot uppers. Carefully mark/pencil the top of the shoe all he way around on the duct tape. If you now slip out of the shoe, you have the upper edge marked with pencil all around on the duct tape, now cut it off your feet at the arc from the leg to the toes (unfortunately that means cutting the sock, too). Carefully take apart the sock and shaped duct tape. Cut along the penciled line and then take the upper part (lie flat) for your pattern. Of course you have to add a seam allowance.
      Hope this explanation helps.

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